Tag Archives: jeans

Cord bootcut Gingers

Hello, hope you are having a good day! So it is taking me a bit longer than I’d hoped to catch up on blogging my makes from the last few months, but next up are some trousers that I’d had in mind for quite a while – the Closet Case Patterns Ginger jeans in needlecord…

Cord bootcut ginger jeans

After the success of my first pair of Gingers I was keen to make another pair in a nicer fabric and to try a different leg cut. I’d brought this stretch needlecord from Minerva Crafts in olive green a while back, but always with the intention of making this pair of trousers. It is lovely and soft and I really like the colour for a versatile pair of trousers (although of course it is difficult to get a dark colour to photograph well!). Working with cord does need a bit of extra consideration – I ensured all pieces were cut with the pile running in the same direction and used a towel when pressing to avoid flattening the cord.

Cord bootcut ginger jeans

I wear bootcut jeans a lot as I find them both comfortable and flattering and thought I’d get more wear out of these with such a leg style. To adapt the pattern, I followed the instructions in the Closet Case Patterns jeans ebook for modifying your pattern to flares, but didn’t flare out so much at the hem.

Prior to that modification I did make a few adjustments to the pattern to get a better fit from my first pair – lengthened the legs 3cm at the knee, added 1cm to hip side seams and I also moved the inseam backwards by 1cm as I felt it was sitting too far forward on my first pair.

cord bootcut ginger jeans

I also made quite a few adjustments while sewing. Since the cord was stretchier than the denim used in my first pair and I was making a significant change to the leg shape, I baste fitted the legs twice (first to check the inseam, then again before sewing up the side seams to check overall fit). I took the jeans in at the knee as I felt the style looked better with a more fitted thigh.

cord bootcut ginger jeans

cord bootcut ginger jeans

For top stitching I used 2 strands of regular thread in a matching shade and think this looks pretty good on these trousers. I flat felled all the seams that I could, takes longer but is totally worth it for the neat and strong finish it produces!

The only “mistake” with these jeans is the waistband – as with my first pair I didn’t cut this out until checking the fit and sewing up the side seams. With the stretchier fabric, this meant a shorter/slimmer waistband than my first pair, which would have been fine except I also interfaced it as the waistband seemed to stretch out a bit too much on my first pair. Sadly the combination of a slimmer waistband plus the interfacing (which stops it having any give) means it can get a little uncomfortable after a big meal hence I have to put a bit of thought into whether they are going to be appropriate for my day!

cord bootcut ginger jeans

They are still totally wearable and I’m very proud of them – I was showing them off quite a bit after finishing! And I’m certainly not done with this pattern, I’m excited to make myself at least a couple more pairs, perhaps trying the skinnier leg version too…


I made jeans!!

When I try on a completed make for the first time that I’m particularly pleased with I find myself doing a little happy dance – these definitely got a happy dance!

Ginger jeans front view

I used the popular Ginger Jeans pattern by Closet Case Files and was very impressed. Heather Lou has done loads of research into making jeans and her passion for helping others to create this super satisfying garment shines through in the incredibly useful sewalong and ebook on sewing jeans. You could easily make the jeans with just the pattern and the sewalong for some extra detail, but I brought the ebook too for a few reasons – 1. I was so impressed with the effort put into the sewalong that I was happy to pay a bit more in appreciation of that; 2. it is useful to have all the resources in one place; 3. the ebook includes additional information such as how to convert the pattern into flared or bootcut jeans, which I fully intend to do.

Ginger jeans side view

I went for view A – the lower rise and stovepipe leg. However, I didn’t want such low rise jeans so I lengthened the rise by 3 cm. To check the fit of doing this, I initially cut everything out except the waistband then basted the jeans together (after stay stitching around the waist). The back was gaping so I took a wedge out there then adjusted the waistband pattern piece appropriately before cutting that out.

Ginger jeans front view

I cut a size 12 which from the measurements I was expecting to have a little room around the hips and to have to take the waist in (sorted out by the wedge mentioned above). Thankfully I basted the side seams after sewing up the rest of the jeans to check the fit again – this showed they were actually a bit tight around the hips. So I used a smaller seam allowance for the side seams from the hips down. I’ll likely do this extra fitting step for all subsequent pairs as the width required for a good fit will depend on how the fabric stretches.

Ginger jeans back view

I used the wider back pockets that are provided as a free download and also lengthened them (since I had lengthened the rise), which also means they are very practical and securely fit my phone. I forgot to lengthen the legs, but think I got away with this by finishing the hem raw edge and then just folding over once about 1cm. But I’ll certainly lengthen the legs before making again though as I think I’d prefer them to be a bit longer.

Ginger jeans front topstitching

I used this stretch denim from Minerva, largely because it wasn’t too expensive and I’d seen a couple of other bloggers make Gingers using it. In all honestly, I’d been expecting these to be a toile that I might get to wear around the house, but they have already been getting lots of wear as one of my proudest makes.

Ginger jeans side topstitching

For the top stitching, I used double strands of regular thread rather than top stitching thread and think this worked pretty well. I went for matching thread partly because I was nervous about it going wonky and being obvious, but also saw from research that the majority of coloured jeans don’t have contrast top stitching. I think the top stitching turned out pretty neat in the end, I didn’t rush it and used a soap slither to add guiding markings where I wasn’t just following a straight seam.

Jeans pockets elephant print

For a fun detail on the inside, I used an elephant print cotton that I brought in Brighton at least a year ago and as per Heather Lou’s recommendation sewed it up so that you could see the print on the inside. I french seamed the pockets and flat felled as many seams as I could. Took a bit longer, but I think worth it and I love how neat they are on the inside.

I can definitely see more me made jeans in my future! Have you made jeans or plan to make some?