Tag Archives: Sewaholic

Belcarra blouse adjustment: broadening the shoulders

When I made a toile of the Sewaholic Belcarra Blouse the fit was pretty good, the only niggle I had was that it felt too tight across the shoulders – it was a bit uncomfortable when moving my arms and the neckline was being pulled wider.

Here’s how I adjusted the shoulders: (note – I don’t know if this is the “correct” way to do this kind of adjustment, but I was happy with the results (see my first finished Belcarra here) so thought I’d share in case it is useful to anyone else)

In the pictures, the blue pen shows the markings traced from the pattern, the red pen shows the adjustments.

Belcarra shoulder adjustment picture 1

  • Measure 1.5cm (the seam allowance) in around the corner of the seam that connects to the blouse front (or back – you need to adjust both shoulder pieces) and the underarm seam, mark point A where the stitching lines here meet
  • Draw a line from the centre of the shoulder seam notch going through point A, to the edge

Belcarra shoulder adjustment picture 2

  • Cut along this line from each edge towards point A, do not cut all the way along – you want to leave point A as a pivot point
  • Tape one side of the cut edge to some additional paper (I’ve just used standard tracing paper)
  • At the shoulder seam, measure from the edge of your taped down side and mark a short line B to indicate how much you want to lengthen the shoulder seam by (I lengthened by 1.5cm)

Belcarra shoulder adjustment picture 3

  • Pivot the free side such that the shoulder seam meets line B and tape in place

Belcarra shoulder adjustment picture 4

  • You’ll see that the shoulder seam now has a step where you’ve broken the line. Fix this by using a French curve or go free hand to draw a new line from the lower part of the sleeve to the neckline. (You have now both lengthened the shoulder and added a bit of extra width)
  • Make sure your notch is clearly visible

Belcarra shoulder adjustment picture 5

  • If you are making view A or C of the blouse, that’s it, you just need to cut out your new shoulder piece and repeat these steps on the back shoulder
  • If you are making view B, extend the tuck lines to the edge of the piece so that you have straight lines again. Repeat adjustments on back shoulder

Do you know of a different, perhaps better, way to adjust raglan sleeves for broader shoulders?

Sewaholic Belcarra Blouse

Sewaholic Belcarra blouse front and side view

I LOVE this top!  I’ve been admiring Sewaholic‘s designs for a while and am tempted by pretty much all of Tasia’s patterns.  When I saw the Belcarra (beginner friendly) released and heard about the sew-along I knew this was the next top I wanted to try.

Sewaholic Belcarra blouse front

Was pretty happy when I tried on my toile as the fit was generally good without any changes.  The only problem was that it felt too tight across the shoulders to the point that I’d be unlikely to wear it.  I searched for raglan sleeve broad should adjustments, but didn’t find anything helpful so I made a guess at what to do (you can see what I did here).  I think it turned out quite well, the top certainly feels comfortable, although that could be due to the softer/drapier fabric used in the final version.  I also narrowed the neckline by 1cm as per the instructions here.

Sewaholic Belcarra blouse side

The fabric is a lovely soft viscose from Goldhawk Road.  I brought this fabric on the recent NYlon meet up, it seemed to be one of the fabrics of the day as I meet quite a few other sewists who’d brought it too, look forward to seeing what they create with it!

This was my first time sewing with viscose and I love it.  Needs a little more care than cotton, but I love the softness and drape, definitely think it has worked well for this top.

Sewaholic Belcarra blouse side back view

The top is quite straight forward to sew up, good instructions and the sew-along provides more details/photos.  I did find the cuffs a bit tricky, so on the final version I hand basted them in place before sewing and was much happier with the result.  I used French seams throughout, which even though there are curved seams worked well.

Please excuse the creases in the photos, I’d been wearing the top for a few hours before they were taken, will have to remember to think about that for future blog photos!

Sewaholic Belcarra blouse back view

I’ll definitely be making some more versions of this top, just what I need for extending my summer wardrobe.  So happy with this top that I couldn’t resist a jumping photo!

Sewaholic Belcarra blouse jumping

Things I learnt:

  • Sewing raglan sleeves
  • Sewing with viscose
  • Using a bias strip as a binding
  • Sewing cuffs