Hacked Sorbetto top with gathers

I felt I needed a bit of a break from the Colette Sorbetto top pattern after my first couple of attempts, but since then I have seen a few takes on it that have inspired me again.  In particular, this version where the bust darts are rotated to neck pleats.

Sobetto top with gathers front view

Instead of pleats, my initial idea was to move the darts to the neckline and then create a gathered neckline.  However, on further reflection, I thought that may not be the best idea for my first go at gathering as without something stable to sew the gathers to I could easily imagine ending up with a rather wonky neckline.  So instead I decided to create front yokes and then rotate the dart towards them.  I also removed the pleat, as felt the gathers were enough for design detail.

Moving the dart

Final front pattern pieces

Before adapting the pattern for the gathers, I made similar adjustments as for my London version (since after wearing the two Sorbettos a bit I realised that the first attempt was actually not such a bad fit).  With the London version I had thought that I’d lowered the armscye too much as the arm hole had a lot of gaping, but after making up this one I’ve realised that the extra length works, but that the base of the armscye is too wide, which was why I was getting all the gaping.  So I took the side seams in by 2.6 cm at each arm – took a bit of time as I’d used French seams, but felt the top was unwearable prior to this so it was definitely worth it.

I also trimmed the front of the armsyce a bit, would have liked to trim a little bit more but couldn’t without needing to redo all the gathering and I didn’t think it was that bad.

I made bias tape using the continuous loop method and hand stitched this down for a neat front finish.  The fabric pattern is probably busy enough that the stitching wouldn’t have been very noticeable, but I actually found the hand stitching quite relaxing and am happy to have done it.

Gathers and bias trim detail

I think the smallish pattern of this fabric makes for good bias tape that would look nice as a trim on a solid coloured top.  (Or maybe I’m just trying to talk myself into buying more fabric…)

The fabric is viscose from Goldhawk Road that has a lovely drape.  Finally feel like I’m starting to make some good fabric choices.  I loved the look and feel of this fabric so much that I had to stop myself going back and buying lots more as they had a few different prints.  I will of course be buying more of this fabric, but am trying to restrict myself to using the fabrics I already have or only buying new fabric for a particular project that I intend to sew straight away so that I don’t end up with an overwhelming stash.

Sorbetto with gathers back view

Looking at the back photos, I wonder if I ought to widen the hem a bit next time.

Sorbetto with gathers front

I’m really happy with this top, it is a very welcome addition to my summer wardrobe.

I would like to make this again, but might try adding a bit more gathering.  Also, I think it could look a bit better with a lower neck line and then longer yoke pieces/lower down gathering.

Have you ever had inspiration from other sewers that makes you go back to a pattern that you were struggling with?

6 thoughts on “Hacked Sorbetto top with gathers

  1. Wow! I love this Sorbetto Alex. You are very talented at altering patterns.
    I have just booked myself onto a pattern alternation workshop at Liberty’s of London on the 11th October if you are interested. Not too bad for £50 including drinks and afternoon tea!

    1. Thanks Caroline, I’m very grateful to all the sewing bloggers who have posted details of alterations to learn from. Ooo, I’ll take a look at that workshop, thanks for letting me know about it!

  2. Thats a beautiful top! I really love it! I don’t quite unterstand how you can just Put the dart on the shoulder seam. Did you rotate the exact same dart to the other seam? I am quite New to sewing with woven fabric, so I can’t imagine that yet.
    I would love to hear from you with a few more details on the alteration steps.

    1. Thanks Nina 🙂
      Yes, I rotated the exact same dart to the shoulder seam (rotating from the apex rather than the end of the dart, although I doubt it would make much difference in this case). I’m working on another top using the same modification at the moment so I’ll aim to do a photo tutorial soon to make it clearer.

  3. I love this! I’ve made two Sorbettos and decided after the second I was going to have to try to remove the darts. They just look dumb on me! This is a PERFECT solution, so thanks!

    1. That’s great Anne, glad you found this useful! I was having trouble getting the darts in the right place so this was a nice way to eliminate them as well as being a nice detail.

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